Three chefs stand behind the counter at Sushi Katsuei, neckties tucked inside white coats, eyes downcast. The rest of the room clatters, but they work in silence, as if of one clear mind. There is no hierarchy, no need for diners to jockey for position in front of one or another. From each chef will come the same pristine pieces of fish, sliced, patted and delivered with an economy of motion and, just possibly, a slip of a smile.
NY TIMES Dining & Wine: Stamping With a Smile of Approval By LIGAYA MISHAN
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